Check-in was at 7:00 p.m. Unfortunately, we showed up on time. There was a line out the door. I should have anticipated the crowds since it was the holidays, but I assumed that a bus can only hold so many people. And that assumption is true until you calculate that there were 5 night buses heading down! I got us signed in and luckily good seats! It was a double-decker bus and we were upstairs in the very front. We had a staircase in front of us so we had plenty of leg room... which is always nice for Bster.
We finally left around 9:00 p.m. We arrived at 5:00 a.m. on the shores of Chumphon. The ride went by fast. Brian and I slept most of the time. We stopped twice. There was a bathroom on board, but everyone knows that's never really an option ;)
Once we got to Chumphon we had to wait 2 hours for the ferry. Everyone just passed out in the chairs set up on the beach. Once it was time to board, it was a mass shoving session :) Not as bad as China though! The walk from the pier to the boat is deceiving. I felt like I was in an Indiana Jones movie and one of the planks of wood was going to break under me - no Koh Chang pun intended. Needless to say, not the most relaxing walk.
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| Passed out! |
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| That's the ferry all the way out there! |
Luckily, we found two seats by a window - first come first served type deal. I was so excited to be on a Catamaran because it was my first time!... I remember waking up when we were 10 minutes out from Koh Tao. I guess I was tired :) Brian passed out too. It was about an hour and a half ferry ride.
The luggage process is awesome! I mean that sarcastically. They throw your bags to you from the ferry. I wonder how many people take the wrong bag. I'm sure a number of them end up in the ocean too. We stood around waiting for some time since our bags were buried.
We walked around confused for a bit when we docked at 10 a.m. We finally found the beach and walked along it for no more than 2 minutes before coming up on Crystal Dive Center. We checked in and sat at the restaurant to fill out Brian's diving forms. They have the cutest cats that reside at that restaurant.
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| Snuggle. |
Anyway, through his delirious state, Brian passed his EFR course!
That night the dive center was having a big BBQ for all the divers since it was Christmas Eve. Brian and I explored the little town and ended up having a pre-dinner. We treated ourselves to Mexican food and a carafe of sangria. Nothing says Christmas Eve like that meal!
The BBQ was actually really really good. They had a huge selection of food and it was all delicious. You learn to be skeptical of free things in Thailand... but this was legit. They showed some movies from the previous days dives. People mainly get their Open Water and Advanced Open Water Certifications on Koh Tao. Brian was the only one getting his Rescue. So he had alot of individual attention from both his instructor and instructor in training.... which is good, but sometimes its nice to have other people in the class...
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| BBQ Buffet |
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| Christmas Eve Feast! |
Since we didn't have any plans on Christmas, we decided to head over to the neighboring island of Koh Nang Yuan. It turned out to be the perfect sunny day for it too! There is one resort located on the island. No 7-11's. It's a very unique place because the three small islands are connected by a sandbar. No plastic bottles are allowed, and it cost 100 Baht to step foot on the island. Teacher Emily said she kayaked to it from Koh Tao and didn't pay. So I'm sure there are ways around paying... but its only 100 Baht. We saw a couple kayak-ers get stopped by the fee police on the beach. One guy even claimed to have swam across from Koh Tao, and he was escorted off because he didn't have 100 baht. Merry Christmas!
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| Koh Nang Yuan - Paradise |
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| The walk around the island. |
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| The incredible shrinking Brian |
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| YAY VACA!!! |
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| Toast to Christmas! |
It was sad leaving the island.
We stayed in Mae Haad Bay. It is a little more low key than Sairee Beach, the bigger beach just north of us. Sairee has tons of backpacking options and is more of a party scene. Mae Haad, however, was perfect for Brian and I. The small town has so many delicious restaurants! The strange thing... all the restaurants are still cheaper than eating farang food in Pattaya. You would think an island would have to "up" their prices because everything comes from shore... but somehow that doesn't apply on Koh Tao. There were sooo many good Italian restaurants and French bakeries. I had the best tiramisu of my life at a French restaurant there. Brian even liked it, and he usually doesn't care for tiramisu. He still doesn't believe me that the white stuff is cheese.
Anyway, we both always looked forward to eating dinner because of these great options. Sairee beach looked like it had some good restaurants, but Mae Haad is where any foodie should go!
Brian started his first rescue course the next day. I resided poolside all day. He said it was definitely going to be a challenging course. I did get to snap some good pictures of him practicing. It looked challenging! I felt like the paparazzi getting the candid shots. I don't think his instructor appreciated the attention, but pictures last a lifetime!!! :)
The next day, Brian continued his course and I decided to attend a yoga class on the south side of the island. I took a motorbike taxi for about 100 Baht each way. Good thing I arranged to have him come back and get me, because there was limited taxi options on that particular beach.
I walked around the town while I waited for the class to start. It was definitely more secluded than Mae Haad or Sairee. It's funny that on an island this small, each beach makes you feel like you changed islands.
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| Chalok Baan Koh - Tao Toh Bay |
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| Buddha Rock |
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| Lounging on bean bags staring at Buddha rock...waiting for YOGA! |
He did go train Muay Thai in Mae Haad during one of his free nights. It was a smaller gym and focused more on walking techniques and whatnot. Brian enjoyed it, but said he preferred his gym in Pattaya.
On Brian's last day of rescue, I was actually suppose to train Muay Thai with a female trainer who was trying to become an instructor. She needed people to practice on/train. Surreee.... I had nothing else but the sun on my list of things to do. Unfortunately, she had to cancel... so I continued walking to the next cove. It was a really nice walk through the jungle... and up hills... and around ritzy resorts... up more hills... and then I finally made... only to find huge waves coming in. So, I went back to my nice poolside chair to wait for Brian.
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| View from the jungle |
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| He's a rescue diver -- So proud. I think this is his happy dance :) |
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| His instructor signing off on it! |
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| Andrew, Brian, and Nader |
We went back to the beach where I did my yoga and went around the cove close to Buddha rock. It was really beautiful back there and secluded. The water was crystal clear and there was a coral reef type deal below. I had purchased a snorkeling mask the previous day, so Brian and I could hold hands and snorkel together. I know... I'm the hopeless cliche :) I only hyperventilated a couple times. Brian said he was very proud of me... I should really just invest in some adult floaties for my arms :)
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| The walkway literally around part of the island. Look at that clear water! Earns my approval :) |
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| On our way! |
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| Brian :) |
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| The beach.. yep right behind that lovely line of trees! |
After that beach, we loaded back on the motorbike and went a little further up. The road got really intense. I would not advise motorbikes if you want to go around the island. Luckily, Brian is experienced now and we did okay. I only had to hop off a couple times :) The hills are not as steep as Koh Chang, or maybe they are in their own unique way... but the roads are definitely not paved.
We hiked down to yet another beach. This one was facing the gulf and had bigger waves. It was even more secluded.
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| The organic path down to the beach. Don't be fooled - It was a hike! |
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| Beach #2 of the day -- Tanote Bay |
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| <3 |
All I can say is... I'm happy we stayed where we did at Mae Haad Bay. It was perfect :)
We only sunned for a little while and then headed back toward home, but stopped by Sairee beach first. We also checked out the other Muay Thai gym so Brian could get some photo's for his freelance job. Unfortunately, Brian didn't have enough time to do a training session there.
The next day was Brian's fun dive day! This really wasn't much of a vacation for Brian... poor thing... it was go go go go go.
He enjoyed his fun dives though. No whale shark sightings - BOO! I joined Brian on the boat. It was a very rocky day at sea. I never knew boats could lean that far over without flipping. Good times! Maybe it is better to be under the water after-all :)
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| Brian jumping in! |
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| Going down with his buddy :) |
We tried to sleep in as late as possible.
Koh Phangan is an island south of Koh Tao. It is known for it's full moon parties. Me, of all people, decided we should go for the huge New Years Eve party. Going to a full moon party was on my list... though I have no idea why... I think I'm like 60 years old. Anyway, the most economic way to accomplish this was to take an afternoon ferry to Koh Phangan and spend the entire night on the island before catching the first ferry back to Koh Tao in the morning. Why is this the most economic way? Because doing New Years on Koh Phangan is similar to doing New Years in Times Square. The hotels only sale rooms in 3 day blocks. It's almost impossible to find accommodations anyway... especially in our price range!
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| In line for the ferry to Koh Phangan |
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| Sitting on the 2nd deck on the ferry heading to the Full Moon Party! |
We ate at another Israeli restaurant before meeting up with Teacher Emily, her brother, and friends from college. Just can't get enough hummus when I leave Pattaya :) It was crowded in the town. Vendors were everywhere selling buckets of alcohol, body paint, and other things that glow under black light. Brian and I bought some paint. You have too. We made it this far, right?!?
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| Cheaper to do it yourself than pay for a fake tattoo! |
Once we got on the beach, it was crazy! The pictures don't really do it justice because none of them turned out :) But it was a party!
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| Bars like this line the beach! |
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| All the neon lights on the beach. |
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| Sign says it all :) |
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| Wouldn't be Thailand without a fire show! |
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| Mojito Bucket, Check! |
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| What happened to Brian's face? |
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| Happy New Year!! |
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| Safety... always a priority in Thailand! |
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| Sitting on a wooden boat, watching people get taken out by a volleyball net in their drunken state. Sooo much fun. Everyone took a seat around to watch the entertainment! We felt a little guilty... a little. |
Truth be told, the main reason we headed back to the pier so early was because of Brian - not that I'm blaming him in any way. 60 years old represent! But Mr. party animal socialite was not himself. He was coming down with a really bad cold! Being sick and staying out all night doesn't mix well. Poor thing :( It took him about two weeks to kick the cold too. He even went to the doctor when we got back to Pattaya. Yeah... he was sick. (Then he gave the cold back to me (it was mine originally from before Christmas) and my immune system gladly accepted. Ugh.)
It was a scene to behold. A bunch of farangs drunk and homeless looking, sleeping on benches covered in body paint. I can't imagine what the Thai's must think.
Brian and I made sure to push our way to the front to get a seat inside the ferry cabin this time. Luckily, we found two together and passed out.
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| If we only knew what was in store.... |
I guess the seas were rough. Brian and I were tired and slept through it until we were rudely awoken. I think the years on the train prepared us for this moment in our lives. Motion doesn't really bother us too much. It just rocks us to sleep.
A couple rows behind us was a family with a baby and toddler. The little girl toddler was screaming. Granted it did feel like we were on a roller coaster and the butterfly stomach feeling happened every 20 seconds or so. Her parents could do little to comfort her because I later found out from Brian, who had a better view, that they were both barfing into bags themselves. Though the screaming was annoying, that was not why we left our seats.
You always smell it... that smell... uck... of puke. The child sitting in front of us hurled all over himself. Poor thing. The smell was getting to me, and we had to leave. We zig zaged out of the cabin and emerged into quiet the scene.
A group of three full mooners were siting down outside the door pointing and laughing at people. It took a while for it to set in that everyone was sick. These three had managed to avoid the puking disease taking over the boat and were instead taking immense humor from others pain. It was very entertaining to watch in the beginning... but it got really old fast. This one kid...ugh... his pain showed... I will never forget how pale and bad he looked.
Apparently, we were missing all the action and fun in our slumber. I have never seen so many people puking in my life. It was inescapable too. Where can you go on a boat?
Back inside the cabin, the smell was everywhere. People were throwing up left and right. It was contagious. The Thai's were passing out clear plastic bags up and down the aisles. We couldn't go to the upper decks because they were just as full and people were hanging over the sides too.
I even made the mistake of venturing into one of the bathrooms. I had to pee... I never hated my bladder more in my life. Sinks were overflowing with puke and sloshing all over. The people were so sick they actually preferred staying in the bathrooms. It was bathroom wars all the way back to Koh Tao... and guess who had the lovely standing position of being by the bathrooms. Oh yeah! Me. Brian with his tallness could hang on to the roof portion of the boat and still steady himself.
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| Brian trying to find cover! |
So we had the joy of staying out on the bow of the boat. Scattered around our feet were people throwing up and looking like death. It was the most uncomfortable ride ever. Trying to dodge barf and calm your own stomach from the smell and visual stimulation. Holding on was awesome too. The catamaran was flying and the seas where not cooperating. Later, we realized the catamaran was way behind schedule and the captain was probably trying to make up time... even if that meant creating a really rough ride for everyone.
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| Tried a candid shot without being noticed...bc you can't truly understand the agony with out visual proof! |
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| Standard! |
Everyone was a bit sad when we passed Koh Tao and continued on to Koh Nang Yuan. It added an extra 30 minutes or so of being on the boat. This is the reason we were speeding. There was a huge tour group late to meet another boat on this island. So not only did we speed for these people, we also missed our dock to accommodate them. Urg. Must be nice to be them. Someone had had enough and jumped ship from the very top of the ferry. It was pretty amazing... the staff didn't even care. I wonder if he was asked to pay the 100 baht fee on Koh Nang Yuan or if he just swam back to Koh Tao?!?
The people I really feel for though... the ones going all the way to BANGKOK! Yeah... not everyone was getting off at Koh Tao... Most had another 2 hour ferry ride to Chumphon and another 8 hour bus ride to Bangkok. What they were thinking when they made plans... I will never know... and I'm sure they questioned their judgement during the trip at some point too.
The people I feel bad for... the actual families with no full moon affiliation who had to put up with all these cracked out body painted kids taking over the boat and starting a puke fest.
Luckily, we survived. Neither of us got sick and BEST BELIEVE we were the first ones off of the ferry too.
As we left, there was a sold out line of passengers on Koh Tao catching the same ferry to Bangkok. Brian and I got looks because we were the first off the ferry and everyone was looking at our body paint. I can only imagine what their faces looked like when they saw the stream of people behind us pale, sick, hungover, and lethargic. Even better - I can only imagine their faces loading onto a puke fest ferry for a two hour ride to Chumphon. Talk about a disastrous decision by these folks. My deepest sympathies went out to them too. They didn't even take part in the full moon party... but the full moon party sure came to them... in the worst way possible.
Brian and I were happy to walk into our room. We showered and slept. It was our last night on Koh Tao. Tomorrow we would start our journey back to Pattaya. We would have to endure another ferry ride and an 8 hour bus ride.
All in all our Koh Tao vacation was good. Brian got certified. We ate amazing food. We survived a full moon party AND we made it home in time for work.
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